Battle Trail

Oh brilliant, I forgot to bring the melatonin, so did NOT get a good night’s sleep. Also it was rather warm (sorry folks but daytime is about 23C and night not much less) so I felt restless. This morning I met Martin Heyes, of Walk Hong Kong, who is an expert on the WW2 history of Hong Kong. My Dad spent most of his time at the Battle Box, the Allied HQ on HK island. Needless to say it has been destroyed and the spot is now occupied by the British Consulate. We went and had a look at the site, just so that I could orientate myself when reading his story.

British Consulate, HK

British Consulate, HK

We then headed uphill to Wong Nai Chung gap, the site of the decisive battle for HK. Martin walked me round a ‘discovery trail’ (with some limited printed information) bringing alive the battle – the tactical errors, the stories of survivors, the history of the Japanese in China and the roles of the various regiments and battalions. The British were utterly under-staffed and under-prepared, especially for an attack from land. The view from the UK War Office was that they didn’t stand a chance of succeeding and it seems that they didn’t want to waste resources (men, artillery or supporting troops) on a lost cause. Under the circumstances the Allies did well to last as long as they did! Here is a film of Martin Heyes describing the battle of Hong Kong:

 

Cricket ground, 1942

Cricket ground, 1942

Cricket ground, 2013

Cricket ground, 2013

While we were surveying the scene over the cricket ground and Happy Valley racecourse, 2 kites flew overhead. I love these birds – we often see several on our way to visit horsey clients along the M4. Julian and I have seen one or two when we’vc visited Roger’s grave in Wales – they always seem to be there, regardless of the weather.

Somehow it seemed like a wave from Dad – he was a keen birdwatcher and got very excited if he saw a kite (they were pretty rare in the ‘70s). I have fond, if slightly terrified, memories of travelling through Wales on the way to our annual holiday (a picnic on the beach at Aberdovey) with Dad birdspotting whilst driving on winding mountain roads with a substantial drop off.

I’ve arrived!

Had a good flight with a tail wind and so got to HK early. The airport is vast but somehow manages to have a peaceful atmosphere and is incredibly efficient. Everyone I’ve encountered has been gentle and welcoming. I’d arranged a shuttlebus with the hotel and this turned out to be an introductory tour of HK. The sun was setting as we crossed Lantau Island, the sea pearly blue with a blush pink sky, the hills snuggled up in their fleecy vegetation. Then past the container port – a patchwork of containers and cranes, before coming into the centre of Kowloon, with its concrete forest of skyscraper trees with neon leaves. Through the tunnel to HK Island, along the waterfront and then up the Peak a little way to get a better view. The hotel alarmed me by taking my case off me at the door in exchange for a scrap of paper with a number on it. It took ages to deliver to my room and I rang receptioin in a flap. Two minutes and two apologetic phone calls later my case appeared. Everyone falls over themselves to give you good service. Everything works – the computer is up and running, I skyped Julian and the plugs are the same as at home, so my plethora of gadgets are busily charging. I couldn’t have had a softer landing. Tomorrow I’ve arranged a battle site tour as an opener to my Dad’s story. Loving it so far!

Planning

In March 2013 I am going to China to retrace a journey made by my father in 1942. He was taken prisoner by the Japanese after the fall of Hong Kong on Christmas day 1941. On Feb 1st 1942 he escaped with 2 colleagues and travelled 1500 miles to the administrative capital of wartime China in Chongqing. He won the Military Cross for his bravery in leading the escape.

I’ll be doing the edited highlights in considerably more luxury! I’ve added a page of background about the original journey. I’ll add more about my own journey in due course.