Ben Zhu

After feeling a bit demoralised about my Mandarin skills I decided to just plough on regardless of whether I was understood. This has been transformative – I have had several short conversations with my driver and Lucy is showing signs of realising when I have said something in what I believe to be Chinese. Today I fended for myself in a cafe (and helped a couple of Germans to get what they wanted) and in the restaurant this evening I ordered food and got the bill without having to repeat myself.

We went to see another huge area of rice terraces this evening – 900Ha of sublime beauty. While we were admiring the sunset, I learned that, of course, Chinese people have exactly the same difficulty remembering European vocabulary as we do learning Mandarin – there are almost no words in common. There are many French visitors to this part of China (due to proximity with Vietnam) and the way the Chinese remember ‘bonjour’ is to think if the Mandarin phrase ‘ben zhu’ – similar pronunciation, but it means ‘stupid pig’. You couldn’t make it up.

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Yuanyang

On the way here we were stopped at a police checkpoint and I was asked for my passport. Apparently there has been some muslim extremist activity in Yunnan recently and they are monitoring foreigners movements. No problem, but I did think I was out of harm’s way as far as terrorism went!

The area around Yuanyang rises to 3000m and lies just 50km north of the Vietnam border. The steep sided mountains have been cultivated for hundreds of years by the Hani people, growing rice that is regarded as among the best in the world. Having had some for dinner I’d say it has a delicious nutty flavour, much more interesting than basmati, say. I also had a delicious dish with meat, garlic, scallions, ginger and chilli. Outrageously expensive meal at £2.50, but then it is a 4 star hotel. The other local minority are the Yi people, who wear gloriously colourful costumes. The rice terraces, now a world heritage site, look stunning at sunset and sunrise. I didn’t use filters or photoshop – these show exactly how it looked.

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Yi girl, age 3

Sunset at Yaohuzui (the tiger’s mouth)P1040309 P1040313 P1040320 P1040322

Sunrise at Daoyishu (a type of fruit tree)

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Commuting, Yunnan styleP1040364

We came back via a farmers market, where the locals can buy and sell vegetables, meat (on the hoof), herbs, household goods, fabric and agricultural equipment.

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