This evening a small miracle occurred. My guide recommended me to go to a Tibetan restaurant called Lamu’s. I can now navigate the maze of alleys in Lijiang old town well enough to find my way there (and back!). The restaurant turned out to be the best and most user-friendly place in town. Or province, come to that. I ordered cheese balls and fried “noddles” with chicken and…a….glass…of….red…wine!!! No really, it’s true. A restaurant in China that sells wine, by the glass. Miracle! And it had a charming view of cherry trees in blossom and a distant pagoda. Bliss.